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Frock Coat Update
Mar. 18th, 2010 03:36 pmWith a few modifications, the muslin for the frock coat fits me. Some small consolation.
When I tried to sew the front and back together at the shoulders, I realized that the back shoulder seam was an inch and a half longer than the front shoulder seam. I checked the original pattern to make sure I didn't trace incorrectly...and no, it's just that the original pattern didn't resize the back armscye for the different patterns. So the back shoulder for the 34" chest is the same as the back shoulder for the 52" chest.
o_O
For one shoulder, I added in a wedge of fabric on the sleeve side of the shoulder to make up for the missing inch and a half. On the other size, I cut away the back to match the front. The second option worked better--putting the shoulder line of the sleeve where it should be. Adding fabric to the front to make up for the oversized back put the shoulder line at the outside edge of my shoulder. Not good for a fitted jacket.
One more glaring error for this pattern's record.
My own modifications: I shortened the bodice by an inch so the flare of the vents hits me at my waist instead of my hip. I shaved off about half an inch from each side seam, starting at the armpit and narrowing to nothing at the waist. This should make it look a little less like I'm wearing my older brother's coat. I'm debating putting in darts to give it even more shape--historical accuracy is not my object here--but I can put off that decision until right before I put in the lining.
I'm going to attempt the lining technique outlined in the pattern instructions because 1) I'm always up for learning a new technique and 2) I'm morbidly curious to see if this part is as fucked up as the rest of it.
I cut the outer fabric for the full-trial version this morning. Since I was concerned about fabric layout, I couldn't use my cutting table. I laid everything down on the living room floor and crawled around. Sweet Jesus, how do people do that on a regular basis?
I forgot to put in my Cheeptrims order last week and didn't get it in until today. I'm uncertain if the stuff will arrive in time for me to embellish the coat before the Pirate's Ball. Very sad-making. I'm going to have to put in the lining before the lace arrives or I won't have a coat to wear at all. Which means my stiching will show on the inside. Bleh. Oh well, this is just the practice version for my own use so I don't ruin someone else's fabric. I shouldn't be so attached.
When I tried to sew the front and back together at the shoulders, I realized that the back shoulder seam was an inch and a half longer than the front shoulder seam. I checked the original pattern to make sure I didn't trace incorrectly...and no, it's just that the original pattern didn't resize the back armscye for the different patterns. So the back shoulder for the 34" chest is the same as the back shoulder for the 52" chest.
o_O
For one shoulder, I added in a wedge of fabric on the sleeve side of the shoulder to make up for the missing inch and a half. On the other size, I cut away the back to match the front. The second option worked better--putting the shoulder line of the sleeve where it should be. Adding fabric to the front to make up for the oversized back put the shoulder line at the outside edge of my shoulder. Not good for a fitted jacket.
One more glaring error for this pattern's record.
My own modifications: I shortened the bodice by an inch so the flare of the vents hits me at my waist instead of my hip. I shaved off about half an inch from each side seam, starting at the armpit and narrowing to nothing at the waist. This should make it look a little less like I'm wearing my older brother's coat. I'm debating putting in darts to give it even more shape--historical accuracy is not my object here--but I can put off that decision until right before I put in the lining.
I'm going to attempt the lining technique outlined in the pattern instructions because 1) I'm always up for learning a new technique and 2) I'm morbidly curious to see if this part is as fucked up as the rest of it.
I cut the outer fabric for the full-trial version this morning. Since I was concerned about fabric layout, I couldn't use my cutting table. I laid everything down on the living room floor and crawled around. Sweet Jesus, how do people do that on a regular basis?
I forgot to put in my Cheeptrims order last week and didn't get it in until today. I'm uncertain if the stuff will arrive in time for me to embellish the coat before the Pirate's Ball. Very sad-making. I'm going to have to put in the lining before the lace arrives or I won't have a coat to wear at all. Which means my stiching will show on the inside. Bleh. Oh well, this is just the practice version for my own use so I don't ruin someone else's fabric. I shouldn't be so attached.